في تمام الخامسة صباحا وصلنا ريكشيكيش, عاصمة اليوغا في العالم! المدينة التي ولدت فيها هذه الرياضة ويزورها آلاف من حول العالم لممارسة هذه الرياضة الروحية. نزّلنا التكتك على أحد ضفاف نهر الجانجا (من الأنهار المقدسة في الهند) وحكالنا إنه ليس مسموح للسيارات بالوصول للجهة الأخرى من النهر, الجهة الأهم اللي فيها كل المعابد.

لم يكن قد حان وقت الشروق بعد, كان المطر ينهمر منذ وصلنا المدينة, فإختبئنا أنا وصديقي تحت أحد المظلات إلى وقت الشروق. مع أوّل وهج ضوء من الشمس, بانت لنا الجبال الخضراء التي تحوط المدينة مع نهر الجانجا, جمال ليس بعده جمال! وقتها عرفت إنه الوضع رح يكون من الآخر. لم يتوقف المطر فقررنا أن نخوض المغامرة ونمشي تحت المطر لنصل إلى الجهة الأخرى من النهر. مشينا على جسر للمشاة فوق النهر إلى الضفّة الأخرى, ومشينا إلى معبد Parmarth Niketan Ashram اللي كنت أنوي المبيت فيه وممارسة اليوغا هناك أثناء وجودي في المدينة.

# معبد Parmarth Niketan

قبل وصولي للمدينة كنت أقرأ عن تجارب أخرى فيها وقرأت عن هذا المعبد وقررت أنزل فيه. هذا المعبد هو أكبر المعابد الموجودة في مدينة ريشيكيش, يحتوي على ١٠٠٠ غرفة تقريبا للزوّار! مبدأه قريب من مبدأ بيوت الضيافة أكثر من مجرد كونه معبد. تكلفة إيجار الغرفة المزدوجة فيه للّيلة ٦٠٠ روبية (١٠ دولار تقريبا) شاملة دروس اليوغا. يوجد في المعبد مكان للأكل يقدم ٣ وجبات في اليوم ووجبات خفيفة ما بين الوجبات الرئيسية. وبعكس باقي المعابد, لا يوجد الكثير من القوانين فيه, الوضع كتير ريلاكس, أبواب المعبد تغلق الساعة ١٠ مساء لكن قبل هذا الوقت لا يوجد حظر تجوّل, لا أحد مجبر على حضور دروس اليوغا أو الطقوس البوذية, بتقدر تطلع وتدخل براحتك, الغرف نظيفة ومكيّفة ومهيّئة تماما لإستقبال الضيوف زي كإنه فندق, لذلك هو مكان مناسب جدا بالنسبة لشخص يريد تجربة اليوغا لأول مرة في المعبد.

طبعاً المعبد بحد ذاته تحفة فنية, الحدائق والتماثيل والرسومات, في كل زاوية يوجد شيء يلفت النظر.. النسّاك البوذيين منتشرين في ساحات المعبد, في كل فترة من اليوم يوجد طقس مختلف ترى الكل مجتمع لتأديته.

عند وصولك للمدينة, خذ تكتك وأعطيه اسم المعبد ورح يوصلك كما حدث معنا, إلى ضفة النهر المقابلة للمعبد. مع ذلك, من السهل جدا أنك تندل للمعبد, عنده ساعة كبيرة واضحة من الجهة المقابلة من النهر وستراه وأنت تقطع الجسر, بس يخلص الجسر روح يمين وضلّك دغري لتوصل (خلّي ببالك انه الطريق فيه كمّية “كاكا” البقر أكثر من أي مكان ثاني بالهند).

في حالتي أنا, وصلت المعبد أنا وصديقي من دون حجز مسبق وكانت الأمور ميسّرة تقريبا, أكلنا بهدلة سريعة من المسؤول بسبب عدم حجزنا المسبق بس كان في غرفة فاضية وكل شي تمام, لكن مش كل الفترة اللي بدنا اياها, لذلك نزلنا بفندق قريب باقي الفترة (اسمه Swiss Cottage للمهتمّين ووضعه جيد جدا, أجمل ما فيه إطلالته على المدينة من أعلى).

إذا زرت الموقع الإلكتروني للمعبد ستجد أنهم يطلبون منك أن تخبرهم عن نيتك للقدوم مسبقاً. لو كنت من الناس اللي بحبوا ترتيب كل شيء مسبقا, تواصل معهم أحسن.

يوجد معبد آخر سمعت عنه في نفس المنطقة اسمه Sri Ved Niketan Ashram ويعتبر الخيار الأوفر, الليلة عنده ب ٢٠٠ روبية حسب ما قرأت لكن مستواه أقل, دروس اليوغا غير مشمولة في حال مبيتكم هناك لأقل من ٣ أيام والباقي تقريبا نفس المعبد الأول. وبالتأكيد يوجد معابد أخرى لكن ليس عندي علم بها.

#### جانجا آرتي Ganga Aarti

من أهم وأشهر الطقوس التي تحدث في بارمارث أشرم هو طقس ال Ganga Aarti, يقوم فيه البوذيين بتقديم النار مع الموسيقى كقربان لآلهة النهر جانجا على شكل صحن صغير فيه زهور وبالوسط في شمعة, ويتركوا الصحن ليطوف مع النهر. يحدث هذا الطقس يوميا وقت الغروب عند هذا المعبد في مدينة ريشيكيش, وفي ٣ مدن أخرى من المدن التي يمر بها النهر.

# اليوغا

لأنّي شخص نشيط جدا, خلال وجودي في ريشيكش لأربع أيّام ما قدرت أصحى بكّير وقت حصّة اليوغا ولا مرّة! مارست اليوغا فقط مرة واحدة في اليوم الأخير من وجودي هناك في أحد مدارس اليوغا المنتشرة في كل مكان من المدينة, وكان وقتها متأخر شوي لذلك قدرت ألحّق. دروس اليوغا في أغلب المعابد ما بين الساعة السادسة والسابعة.

لأي شخص بحب يمارس اليوغا هناك, في حال نزولكم في أي من المعابد على الأغلب هناك دروس يوغا متوفرة في المعبد. بينما في حال مبيتكم في أحد الفنادق, تستطيعون ممارسة اليوغا في مدارس اليوغا المنتشرة في المدينة وبالغالب سعر الدرس ما بين ٢٠٠-٣٠٠ روبية (٣ – ٥ دولارات). أنا جرّبت مدرسة Om Shanti Om لليوغا, كان الدرس الساعة ١٠ صباحا وكان الوضع جميل.

وعلى سيرة المدرسة لازم أحكيلكم معلومة ممكن تكون مهمّة في حال قرّرتهم زيارة ريشيكيش. المدينة بالنسبة لي مقسومة لجزئين: جزء المعبدين اللي حكتلكم عنهم وجزء مدارس اليوغا اللي فيه سيّاح أكثر ومطاعم غربية. بين المنطقتين ١٠ دقائق مشي تقريبا, كل منطقة عندها جسر مشاة فوق النهر واسمها على اسمه. منطقة المعابد اسمها Ram Jhala, منطقة السياح والمطاعم الغربية اسمها Laxman Jhula.

## تنظيف أذني أثناء وجودي في ريشيكيش

وأنا ماشي بالمدينة, لاحظت أكثر من مرة وجود أشخاص يحملون حقيبة مكتوب عليها Ear Cleaner (منظف أذن) وكانوا ينادوني لكن كنت أطنّش. في يومي الأخير هناك شفت واحد منهم ومشيت عنه, بعدين فكّرت “كيف يعني Ear Cleaner؟!!”, قعدت على قارعة الطريق وفتحت على جوجل وبحثت عن الموضوع ووجدت إنه الموضوع آمن فرجعت.

قعدت عنده, فتح الحقيبة وطال منها حديدة وصار يدخّلها في أذني ويطلع عليها وسخ (شمع الأذن) ويحكي واااااو, عمل هيك أكتر من مرة, بعدين حكالي إنه لازم يستخدم زيت خاص لإستخراج الكمية الأكبر من الشمع. بعد مفاصلات عنيفة وافقت وحط زيت في أذني بعدين دخّل الملقط وطال كرة صغيرة من الشمع, وقتها أنا حكيت وااااو! مش معقول كل هاي كاينة جوّا! بعدين عمل نفس الشي للأذن الثانية. الحمدلله بس خلّص كانت حاسّة السمع عندي بعدها شغّالة وأذني نظفت فالواضح إنه فعلا منظّف أذن محترف, وظيفة أوّل مرة بحياتي بسمع فيها!

أوّل ما وصلته كان بدّه يدفّعني ٦٠٠ روبية على الأذن الواحدة (آه بحاسب كل أذن بسعرها هاها)! بعد المفاصلات وصلت إلى ٣٠٠ روبية للأذنتين. لو كنت رايق أكثر كان فاصله ل ٢٠٠ بس كنت بدي أخلص.

## خلاصة

ريشيكيش من أكثر المدن اللي اسمتعت في زيارتي لها في الهند, الطبيعة الجميلة والجو الغربي المخلوط بالجو الهندي والمعابد ونهر ال Gangas والأكل والنظافة. أنصح الجميع بزيارتها ولعب رياضة اليوغا, خصوصا في الصباح الباكر في المعبد. لا تكوني زيي وتتركوا أنفسكم للنوم.

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